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Article: Nazar Ka Teeka: The Story Behind the Black Marks on Saree Selvage

Nazar Ka Teeka: The Story Behind the Black Marks on Saree Selvage

Banarasi sarees, celebrated for their intricate designs and unparalleled craftsmanship, are steeped in tradition and storytelling. Among their many features, the “teeka” on the selvage is a characteristic that often raises questions among saree users. Often mistaken for a stain or a flaw, it may lead to disappointment when first noticed. Upon inquiry with the seller, the explanation often comes with a cultural touch:

"Madam Ji, ye nazar ka teeka hai. Isse aapko aur saree ko nazar nahi lagegi."

(Translation: Madam, this is a protective charm against the evil eye. It will keep you and the saree safe from bad vibes.")

While this response might sound like an excuse to the user, the truth is that the teeka is a functional part of the weaving process and is indeed present on every handwoven banarasi saree, unless it is removed. Let’s explore what it is and why it exists.

What is the Nazar Ka Teeka on a saree?

Nazar Ka Teeka is a euphemism for a small black mark, put by the weaver on the edge of the unwoven section of the warp during weaving. This mark helps the weaver track the length of fabric woven, ensuring accuracy in dimensions. While it may seem out of place in a meticulously crafted saree if not removed, it serves a critical purpose, deeply rooted in traditional weaving practices.

Why do weavers put the Teeka?

Besides creating intricate designs, weaving a saree also demands meticulous precision in achieving the ideal length of approximately six yards (or about 5.5 meters). A saree that is too long increases the cost unnecessarily, while one that is too short can be challenging to drape. The correct length is crucial, making accurate measurement during the weaving process an indispensable step. However, as the weaving progresses on a handloom, the woven fabric is continuously rolled onto a wooden beam laid horizontally at the weaver's end of the loom. Simultaneously, the unwoven warp is released by rotating the beam holding the rolled warp at the other end of the loom, facilitating the rolling of the woven fabric at the weaver's end and bringing the weaving area closer to the weaver's span. This rolling process keeps the fabric taut and secure but also hides the finished portion from the weaver's view. Since the woven length is no longer visible or accessible, the weaver cannot measure it directly. To address this, they rely on markers like the teeka placed at fixed intervals on the unwoven warp threads ahead of them, which serve as a reference to track the length woven. This practical solution ensures that the fabric meets precise measurements, even when the weaver can't physically see or measure the rolled fabric on the beam. Weavers puts the first teeka a yard from the starting point of the weave. When the weaver reaches the first teeka, it signals the completion of a specific length, and another teeka is marked on the unwoven warp a yard away to track subsequent progress. This process prevents errors, ensuring that the saree meets its intended length.

In Banaras, the weaver’s yard or gaj, as they call it, is used for length measurement, which measures approximately 43 inches/109 cm—longer than the standard yard, which is about 36 inches/91 cms. Besides the Gaj, you will also hear the term Giray, which are division marks on the weavers yardstick made of iron and usually gray in color. One Giray is approximately equal to the span of four fingers in the hand.

For a saree, a weavers weaves five gajs and two girays, to make a saree length of a little over 5.5 meters, accounting for slight shrinkage after the fabric is removed from the loom. The teeka ensures that these precise measurements are maintained.

Why don't you see the Teeka on every saree?

Teeka marks are an integral part of traditional handwoven sarees and are generally present on every handwoven saree until specifically removed. Ideally, these markers are temporary, made using substances that can be cleaned post-weaving. Typically, the teeka is created using “karkhi,” a black oily residue from the loom’s jacquard mechanism. This can usually be cleaned post-weaving, and you won't notice it in your saree, especially if it is in a darker colour. However, inadvertent use of ink or other permanent marker by the weaver can make removal challenging or even impossible, especially on white and lighter color fabrics. 

Not every saree you see is woven on a handloom. In powerloom sarees, the use of karkhi from the iron jacquard atop the loom is rare, as it cannot be reached as easily as on a handloom. Occasionally, some indiscreet powerloom weavers may use ink as a marker, which can be very challenging, or even impossible to remove. But many powerloom weavers now use a measuring thread that rolls along with the warp in proportion to the woven fabric. A measure of this thread gives a precise measure of the length of woven fabric rolled in the beam, eliminating the need for visual markers like the teeka. This modern approach ensures efficiency and accuracy while aligning with contemporary weaving practices. However, it is seldom followed in handloom weaving, where weavers continue to use the "Karkhi" as markers to date.

Should the Teeka be considered a defect?

The persistence of teeka marks is tied to practicality and tradition. Handloom weaving in Banaras often takes place in family-run setups, where habits and methods are passed down through generations. Variability in the carefulness of individual weavers also plays a role in its continued use.

Over the past decade, we at HolyWeaves have made significant progress in our efforts to address this traditional practice by actively encouraging the use of early removable markers like chalk by all our weavers, over 900 of them at the time of writing. While notable progress has been achieved, ingrained habits among weavers mean that you may continue to encounter the "nazar ka teeka" on some of your sarees in the future. 

Rather than viewing it as a flaw, the teeka needs to be embraced as a mark of authenticity and a testament to the artistry involved in handloom weaving. It is a subtle reminder of the human effort behind every Banarasi saree, bridging the gap between tradition and modern appreciation. We at HolyWeaves remain committed to improving practices while preserving these stories to meet evolving customer expectations, ensuring that each saree retains its unique character.


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